Places We Go : Where Parisians Shop
On my trip to Paris last May, John&Jim were sweet to make sure that we did everything on my list. Some of that involved shopping - well, not exactly "shopping.". I just wanted to see where the French shop or maybe just window-shop. I figured Parisian shopping would be stylish in beautiful surroundings. I had no idea. Needless to say, "shopping" in Paris was super fun. Buci News wasn't on my list but a good place to buy cards, magazines (including Veranda and all my US favs) and office products. Fun to learn that "Le Bic" means pallpoint pen. For my shopping list, let's take a look.
IKEA wasn't on my to-look-list but it was fun to see a small store descreetly fitting into a neighborhood.
We saw some vintage clothing stores.
Le Marché aux Fleurs (the Paris Flower Market) is located on Place Louis Lépine on the Île de la Cité between the Notre-Dame Cathedral and Sainte-Chapelle. The flower market has attracted avid gardeners and curious passers-by since 1808.
One thing on my "shopping" list was to see some of the passages. Originally built in the early 1800's, there were an estimated 500 of these covered shopping passages through Paris. Billed as the original shopping mall, less than 30 survive. Although no one knows the exact date the Passage du Grand-Cerf was opened, records show that the covered walkway was open to the public as early as 1825. It sill has it's original glass ceiling and paneled walls.
As in all passages, the Passage du Grand-Cerf is still filled with shops and restaurants. John&Jim made a purchase at the charming RickShaw in the Passage du Grand Cerf. A curated collection of antiques, vintage and imported objects from around the world, the shop is like Ali Baba’s cave -filled from floor to ceiling of interestingly unique items.
Doorknobs galore at RickShaw. I'm still sad I didn't buy the $10 yellow and red door knobs (above top left) although I have no idea what I'd done with them.
I'd read about a popular home furnishing/ gift store called Fleux. Turns out, it was right down the street from our hotel. There are six locations in the Marais including these two stores sharing a common inner courtyard.
Loved these decorative plastic cups at Fleux.
John&Jim bought a jig saw puzzle at Fleux.
Near the Louvre and in the 1st arrondissement, La Samaritaine department store was not to be missed. .Not to see the posh duty-free goods for sale but to see the architectural brilliance of Frantz Jourdain, a pioneer of Art Nouveau who turned La Samaritaine into a masterpiece in 1903. It was closed in 2005 due to safety concerns after falling into disrepair. The 19th century landmark was reopened in 2021 after a €835 (US$900M), 7-year restoration by LVMH. LVMH is a luxury goods conglomerate that includes Louis Vuitton, Givenchy and Dom Perignon. I was there in 1979 where I remember buying shoe polish. It was a just a store then but the ceiling and balconies were memorable. Now it sells 600 of the world's most luxury good lines plus it houses a luxury hotel, a spa and 12 restaurants.
On the top floor, we saw the 377' feet peacock which features enameled lava stone ceramics, a monumental desiged by Francis Jourdan, one of two original architects.
Arguably the most beautiful store in the world, I had to see Galleries Lafayette Hauptmann in the 9th arrondissement. Who knew there'd be a crowd waiting for the store to open on a Sunday morning? Located in a beautiful Art Noveau Hauptmann building, we noticed a huge H&M across the street in a similar building.
The dome has become one of the most iconic architectural monuments in Paris. Construction began in 1912. The dome was removed during World War II when it was taken apart to prevent it from breaking if bombed.
Would you walk out on the glass walkway? Four floors up, tickets are free but you must reserve in advance as there are only 8 people allowed at a time.
In Galleries Lafayette Hauptmann's food hall, there stood a beautiful wall exoctically papered.
We strolled through the famous Shakespeare and Company in the French Quarter. Connie and I went to a reading there in 1971. The beat goes on.
We stumbled into the design district. Pierre Frey is one of my favorite brands.
We had a coffee break near the Les Halles underground shopping center. It never occurred to me I wouldn't be safe in Paris but then I don't see soldiers like this in Oakland.
My number one shopping destination was just outside Paris. One morning we took an Uber (US$21 one way) out to the largest flea market in Europe. Apparently, flea markets got their name when used flea-infested furniture was sold within Paris city limits. All were moved to Saint-Ouen. Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen is the overarching name for this flea market, which encompasses more than 2,500 sellers grouped into 14 smaller markets over a span of 17.3 acres. Apparently, the regulars call it "Les Puces" (the Fleas).
There was a combination of stalls (like above), larger stores, open air stalls and stuff layed on the payment. We concentrated in the Marche Vernaison area which features costume jewelry, buttons, beads and tableware. I bought a beautiful old button for one euro.
A paper map of Marche Vernaison. This is only a small area of the flea market.
A typical alley in the 17 acre complex.
I loved the front of this shop.
Lots of new clothes in addition to vintage.
And lots of undies!
I had to have a 100% traditional French work jacket. J&J heled me find my size when the proprietor told me that French women don't have large breasts. As you can imagine, that was not helpful. The jacket was 30 E (US$32). When I got home, I had the sleeves shortened. Despite its humble beginnings, the Bleu de Travail is now part of that illustrous club of timeless items, such as the duffel coat, the trenchcoat, the striped breton shirt and the pea coat.
In 1844, Adolphe Lafont is believed to have created the first, standardized Bleu de Travail (Work Blues): An unlined blue cotton moleskin jacket, rounded shirt colar with no lapels, 4-5 front buttons, 2 large front pockets for tools, one breast pocket for note books and tobacco, one inside pocket for personals – all topstitched for easy production. Later they would also be made in cotton twills (essentially jeans) and herringbone twill – all three very sturdy and durable weaves. Lafont’s design was soon copied by other manufacturers all over Europe and with little variation remains the same even to this day.
Vintage clothing.
In addition to the blue jacket and a button, I bought a small blue pitcher. The shop proprietor wraps it up.
After a bit of haggling down 5 euros, I had this little pitcher. Stamped "FRANCE" and the perfect blue, I know I overpaid but I wanted it - US$20, but what was a girl to do? Have a great Sunday!
Just in case you wondered -
The history of the flea market dates back over two centuries, when rag and bone men scoured through the garbage of Paris at night to find valuable junk to sell on. They were called 'crocheteurs' or pickers. The romantic term was 'pêcheurs de lune' or ‘fishermen for the moon’. Many set up their temporary stalls within the Paris walls in sleazy neighborhoods, but because these districts were full of pickpockets and thieves, they were chased out of the city walls to Clignancourt, Montreuil, Vanves, etc. The largest of these flea markets is the one at Clignancourt, but the other two continue to this day.
The rag and bone men gathered outside the walls of Paris at the Porte de Clignancourt and set up temporary stalls where they hawked their wares. Eventually, they formed groups of stalls to attract more customers. The more enterprising traders began to 'trade up' in terms of goods and eventually it became popular for Parisian collectors and antique dealers to shop there for bargains.
In 1885, authorities in the town of Saint Ouen made a significant move to pave the streets and clean up the area, marking the official starting year of Les Puces. Several areas were designated as official market areas and a fee had to be paid to set up a stall there.
The markets grew until Monsieur Romain Vernaison transformed the acres he owned into a series of covered huts; et voilà, Marché Vernaison was born. An Albanian named Malik (rumored to be a Royal Prince) subsequently bought a restaurant on Rue Jules Vallès and transformed the building into 100 stalls, forming the Malik market." - A Guide to Paris' Best Flea Markets by Paris Perfect
Haussmann's renovation of Paris was a vast public works program commissioned by French Emperor Napoleon III and directed by his prefect of the Seine, Georges-Eugène Haussmann, between 1853 and 1870. It included the demolition of medieval neighbourhoods that were deemed overcrowded and unhealthy by officials at the time; the building of wide avenues; new parks and squares; the annexation of the suburbs surrounding Paris; and the construction of new sewers, fountains and aqueducts. Haussmann's work was met with fierce opposition, and he was finally dismissed by Napoleon III in 1870; but work on his projects continued until 1927. The street plan and distinctive appearance of the centre of Paris today are largely the result of Haussmann's renovation. - Wikipedia
